Trippin’ in the Desert
No, I didn’t wander off after eating some strange cactus. Even worse, I joined some of my comrades on a grueling 3 day bicycle ride through Canyonlands National Park.
The plan was to ride the White Rim Trail, a 110 mile loop that starts high up on the sandstone mesa of the park, then drops down to the river bed, and rolls up and down on the “White Rim” before a steep climb back up to the top of the mesa.
The crew at the trailhead: Mike, Brian, Adam
Because the entire trail is accessible to motor vehicles, most cyclists choose to do the ride with a support vehicle, or “sag-wagon” (don’t ask me what it means, I hear the French made it up). Usually a stock pickup truck jammed full of camping gear, the sag-wagon would ride up the trail to each night’s predetermined campsite, set up, and the riders would follow. The support vehicle carries all the food and water for the riders, allowing the lightest load possible on the bike.
Riding on BLM land before dropping down into Canyonlands
However, always trying to take things to the extreme (or extremely stupid), we planned to do the trip unsupported. This means loading up a pair of panniers on each bike with enough food, water, and sleeping gear to ride the trail and survive. However, we did meet some friendlies that were gracious enough to carry my 3 gallon jug in their Range Rover, freeing me up of an unecessary 24 pounds of gear on the bike.
We left Denver at 1:30 AM Saturday morning and drove all the way out to the visitor center to pick up the camp permits, then got all our gear together, and hit the trail about 9 AM (not before Brian cleared out his stomach). Already it was getting hot. By the time we descended into the Green River bed around 11, the sun was blasting and the temp was over 85 degrees.
The Green River
We rode about 40 miles and arrived at the Potato Bottom Campground around 2 PM, and quickly found some shade to relax in during the heat of the day.
Chillin’ in the shade
Even better, the campground was right down on the river, so we went down for a dip to cool off in the fast current.
Swimming in the Green River
The next morning, we woke at dawn and the heat was already starting to rise. The next leg of the trip was on the actual “white rim”, and for the next 40 miles, we were treated to the most epic views of the surrounding ancient canyon walls and mesas.
Heading out Sunday morning
Mike on the White Rim
Adam & Mike riding Sunday morning
One of these every 10 miles. Don’t ask what happens in between…
Steep downhill (notice the helmet)
The halfway point of the trip is at the southernmost point of the White Rim, where the Green River merges with the Colorado River. A popular tourist attraction, we hiked out to the edge of the rim, called “The White Crack”.
View from the White Crack
By the middle of day 2, we arrived at the second campground with a little less than a half gallon of water each. We made the smart decision to try to make it as far as we could by riding though dusk, to avoid getting caught in the heat of the third day.
View to the East
Coincidentally, we lucked out that the moon was in a full phase, and as the sun set, the moon cast shadows on the huge looming walls and spires of the mesas. It was a mystical sight to see and ride along.
However, by 11 PM, when our legs couldn’t take any more abuse, we pulled over and set up an emergency bivouc on the side of the road. We figured we had only another 5 miles to go, but a 2000 foot elevation gain.
Waking up at dawn on Monday was one of the worst feelings in the world. I would have liked nothing more than to throw the bike over the edge of the canyon, but I knew I had to mount it once more to make it out this morning.
No water, little food, and the hot sun beginning to rise, we made the final push to the top of the canyon and back to the awaiting car.
The rest of Monday was spent at a local swimming hole in Moab, followed by Pizza and Margaritas, and a nice comfy car-campsite and fire high above the city.
We survived! Car camping above Moab.
Total Trip Stats: 112 Miles, 12 hours, 32 minutes ride time. Avg speed 9.6 MPG, Max speed 33.83.
I have a ton more pictures of the trip. Check them out here.